Danba and Beyond
Tibetan locals playing cards with the monks, Zhonglu village, Sichuan Province
Danba is located in the west of Sichuan province, approximately 350km-s away from Chengdu. The area was impacted by the huge earthquake back in 2009 so therefore the roads are harder to be travelled through, but it’s definitely worth the 6-7 hours of ride.
The area is well-known for it’s ancient watchtowers, a number of picturesque Tibetan villages, natural reserves untouched by modern tourism, traditional Jiarong Tibetan custom and more.
Unfortunately when I visited the place I only had a phone camera with me…
Zhonglu Tibetan Village, known as “the place which gods and people look forward to”
Danba lies within the mountains
Houses
The houses are usually distributed along the southern mountain slopes facing the sun, houses in the Tibetan Villages are painted with whitewash. Most of the houses has got three or four floors, with the exterior walls of the top floors painted yellow, black, dark red.
Every house represents a household usually; grandparents, parents and kids living together.
The ground floor often makes a barn for livestock, while the upper floors are the kitchen, storeroom, living room, and scripture hall. On the four corners of the roof, there are four white turrets, which are used to show respect to the deities in charge of hills, trees, rivers and lands. Pray banners hanging around the houses ripple in the wind, adding more charm to the region.
The houses are decorated with the patterns of…
… sun, moon, star and other religious designs
Interior of the Houses
Kitchen of my friend’s house, Danba Sichuan Province
The first thing that really surprised me how clean and tidy the Tibetan houses inside. The houses are pure and usually only have electricity and there no running water or gas. The kitchen is not only a function room for preparing food, but also this is the place where “heating” is generated. Actually the only place in the house with “heating”
I visited Danba in February just after winter, and I can say that Tibetan people can really stand cold temperature!
The houses do not have bathroom either and Tibetan people use natural hot springs to take bath. This is an age-old practice in China for wellbeing and medical care.
Kitchen in my guesthouse up in the mountains
Jiaju Tibetan village one of the most beautiful six villages in China according to the Chinese National Geographic Magazine
People
Women returning from their job
The Jiarong Tibetans are part of Zang ethnic group and they are the main residents in Danba. They are descendants of Tubo people and they are a “result” of the more than 1,000 year mix and fusion of different tribes in the area.
Jiarong people have their unique historical origin, language, costume, custom, culture, architectural ornament which are different from that of the Tibetans in other Tibetan areas.
Women in Danba are famous for being the “most beautiful girls” in the world!
Locals in Danba
Watchtowers
I could not find a normal picture about the most famous Soup DIaolou Towers as was not taking proper pictures back when I was travelling in Sichuan - but these towers behind me on the pic … - the locals are rather friendly as you can see though
The ancient stone towers, that are nestled incongruously among village homes on hillsides overlooking the Dadu River, were built by the Qiang People between 700 and 1200 years ago. Hence, the name Qiang Watchtowers.
The Qiang watchtowers can be found in every village in Danba are
These buildings range from 20m to 60m in height and were used as places of worship and to store valuables as well as to signal warnings of would-be attackers.
Religion
Objects for a shamanic ritual, Danba, Sichuan
Buddhism was introduced to the area when Tubo people immigrated here, and Indian Buddhism have developed gradually since the 8th century.
Buddhism is the major religion in Danba today.
A prayer wheel is a cylindrical wheel on a spindle. Traditionally, the mantra Om Mani Padme Hum is written in Newari language of Nepal, on the outside of the wheels
The religion is rich in visual symbolism - five colors prayer flags are dancing in the air
The religion has got important role of rituals and initiations - villagers in front of the temple after completing their ritual
There are mantras and meditations are in practice - local woman at a prayer wheel
A typical Tibetan House in the area
Bar and billiard area - Tibetan Villages, Danba area
Danba “city” centre
How to Get to Danba
The road to Danba goes through the Tibetan Plateau…
From Chengdu: Make your own transportation to Chengdu, where every day there are two shuttle buses daily from Chadianzi Bus Station going directly to Danba County (6:30am and 7:00am - driving time is between 6 to 7 hours)
Due the the constant road constructions, though, sometimes detour is required to Kangding area increasing the travel time up to 10 hours.
From Kangding: Kangding Station has got direct bus transport for Danba County, with two departures a day: 7:30am and 2:30 pm. Driving time is about 4 hours.
To Jiaju village: Once arriving to Danba County, you can take a local small van to Jiaju Tibetan Village and Zhonglu Tibetan Village. It costs 60-80 Yuan for a charter (5Yuan per person) while 20 Yuan for carpooling. The village is about 3 km-s from Danba, you can even hike there.
To Zhonglu village: You can either take a 7 seat bus from Danba (8-10Yuan) or you can hike which take 2 hours.
To Soup village: I can suggest walking there as the village is only 3 km-s away. Alternatively rent a car for 30Yuan